Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay from over twenty different crus, non-vintage but aged longer than most, three years on lees before release. Pol Roger's own notes point to white fruit and citrus, brioche and a touch of honey, with a bead that's fine and persistent through a long, dry finish. It's the house style in its most versatile form, elegant enough to open without an occasion. Good for the first proper picnic of the year, or whenever the light starts staying out a little longer.

"The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright and beautifully focused. The Latitude contains 40% perpetual reserve wine dating back to 2004. It is usually a bit more approachable on release, but this year's version clearly needs time to soften. Today, citrus, floral and mineral notes abound on the steely finish." — 92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Pure Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus, where more clay in the soil gives the wine extra breadth of texture. It matures mostly in large casks, unfiltered, then rests over two years in bottle before a low, extra-brut dosage. Forty per cent of the blend comes from a perpetual reserve running since 2004, so there's real history sitting quietly behind the glass. A generous style for the first mild weekend of spring.

A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier off forty-year-old vines across the Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne, aged three years on lees before a hand disgorgement. The style is taut and focused, its natural density and texture held in check by crystalline acidity and what Bibendum describes as a smoky mineral resonance. Antonio Galloni called it "a real rock star", and it's one of the most compelling entry points into grower Champagne going. A good bottle for the first properly warm evening of the season.

Agrapart's Terroirs is 100% Grand Cru, drawn from four revered villages in the Côte des Blancs, Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry, off vines averaging more than fifty years old. This release runs on the 2020 and 2019 vintages, with reserve wine making up a striking 80% of the blend, half matured in large format neutral oak with over three years on lees and a dosage of just 5 g/L. Bibendum calls it "another flat-out stunning disgorgement," evidence of a grower in perpetual motion. Worth pouring as the days start lengthening again.

The prestige cuvée, named for Pol Roger's most famous customer and built for a special occasion. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the house's top grand cru vineyards, aged for years in the Pol Roger cellars before release, giving real depth and complexity alongside the freshness that vintage Champagne needs. This is the bottle for a spring celebration you've actually planned for, an engagement, a milestone, a long table set outside for the first time this year. Presented in its own gift box, it's ready to hand over as it is.

Bibendum calls this the emblematic wine of the Egly-Ouriet domaine, a Blanc de Noirs from a single terroir, Les Crayères, planted with Pinot Noir vines in 1946 and now among the oldest in Champagne. It has, in their words, both profound depth and incredible finesse, and Egly "gives it to you full throttle". Built for food and for ageing, this is one for a proper spring gathering rather than a quiet glass alone.